I’ll attach the internal dividers of the sideboard to the case using sliding dovetails. Firstly, I’ll make the female portion of the joint. Using a router, a 14 degree Dovetail Bit, and a spacer, the dovetail slots are cut into the top and bottom web frames. The spacer not only positions the router for consistent cuts, it also serves as a convenient fence for the router.
Secondly, I can cut the male side of the joint on the dividers themselves using the router table. And this is one of the times where having a micro-adjustable fence on the router table comes in very handy. I like to sneak up on the fit taking just a few thousandths off each time. You should keep in mind that in order for the dovetail to be centered you need to take a pass on each side. Therefore, every adjustment you make to the router table fence is times two. It’s all too easy to remove too much material.
After the dividers slide in nicely, with some effort, they can be glued to the case. However, keep in mind that if the joint is snug and difficult to assemble dry, it will be impossible to assembled when a water-based glue is on the joint. So it’s never a bad idea to use a non water-based glue for this application such as epoxy or polyurethane glue.
After the dividers were installed, I decided to add an additional support strip on the back of the case as further insurance against sagging.
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Stuff I Used:
- Bumblechutes Finish – Save 10% with code TWW10
- Amana Countersink Bit
- Backside Sandpaper
- Milwaukee Die Grinder
- Carbide Burr (Ball)
- Large Core Box Bit
- Mouse Card Scraper
- Leigh Dovetail Jig
- My Vacuum Press Setup
- Taper Maker Hardware Kit
- RevMark White Marker
- White Pencil
- Festool Domino
- Festool OF1400 Router
- 1/4″ Upspiral Bit
- Titebond Extend
- Dovetail Bit
- Milwaukee Die Grinder
- Cove Bit
- Preppin Weapon Sanding Block
- Milwaukee Compact Router